Wednesday, March 11, 2015

Mt Kinabalu - Part Five: Top of the World


Chu and I woke up around 9pm with a headache.  We both took paracetomol to ease our pain and praying that we would feel better the next morning.  I did not fall asleep until 11pm.  Oh gosh... only 2 hours away before the climb.  Would I be ready for it?

The final attack took place in the early hours of the second day in order to catch the sunrise.  We woke up at 1am.  I was relieved that the headache was gone.  It was freezing cold and I put on 4 layers of clothes.  We climbed up to Laban Rata Resthouse for supper.  Gotta fuel ourselves for the final push.


Even though from Timpohon Gate to Laban Rata is 6km, and from Laban Rata to the peak is 2.72km; the latter was so much harder and challenging.  What we experienced the day before was nothing compared to this.

It was pitched black and everyone had their headlamps on.  I could see a trail of lights ahead of me moving higher and higher, giving hints of the route I was about to take.  The first kilometre was all steps and rocks.  And then there comes a part where you hold on to a big white rope, climb up a narrow path of steep, large rocks.  At some point, the level of inclination was almost 70 degrees, with only a rope separating us between life and death. 

Robbi, our mountain guide was with us all these while.  He was very helpful in instructing us where to put our foot on, even holding our hands leading us the way.  Did I mention he has been a mountain guide for 11 long years?!  No wonder he is so experienced.  He doesn't even need to hold the rope while climbing.  If anyone of us lose our balance, he'd pull us back up. 

Finally, we reached Sayat-sayat checkpoint.  Climbers need to check in here to report for the summit climb.  We took a break for awhile before continuing the hike.  Beyond this checkpoint, it was all rocky boulders.  Perhaps the scariest and the most dangerous part of the climb was over.  Our dear friend, Robbi, left us on our own, again!

Although Chu has acrophobia, Donna and her hike up the mountain like a rocket.  Audrey and I stayed slow and steady.  At one point I was practically walking every five steps and stopped...  It was less than 10°C, and on top of that the wind blasted like crazy.  It was insanely cold.  The strong wind causes the white rope to sway from the left to the right.  As a result, Audrey felt dizzy and uneasy.  She stopped while encouraging me to move on.  I felt so terrible for leaving her behind in such a condition, but I couldn't stay still with such a strong wind.  The weather up here is icy cold and although I was wearing four layers of clothing, it was impossible to stay warm and focused.  I moved slowly forward while hoping Robbi would find Audrey and assist her.


Eventually Robbi found her.  Audrey told us later that she tried to move forward without holding the rope but at some point it was rather impossible.  Robbi brought her back to Sayat-sayat checkpoint, and she rested in the container with a number of others who wished not to proceed further.  But she managed to catch a glimpse of the sunrise.  In fact, Robbi told her sometimes the view at Sayat-sayat checkpoint is better than the mountain peak.  I certainly believe she has made a good decision.

As for me, I continued to wrestle with the cold wind while taking every step with all my strength.  It was hard to concentrate.  I was coughing and my nose became watery.  I wasn't sure when did that happen but I was all alone at the mountain.  I could see lights ahead of me and way far behind me.  But no one was next to me.  It was at this point my headlamp began to... and suddenly it turned off by itself.

Does this sound like a movie scene to you?  Well, it was happening to me.  My first reaction was:  What am I going to do now?  Two options: Continue the climb until I meet someone; Or descend back to Sayat-sayat checkpoint.  I was very hesitatant as both options require me to climb in darkness.  I did not have a torchlight with me except my headlamp.  Perhaps I should stay still and wait?  But the wind was killing every bit of me.  Even with a pair of water resistant winter glove, I could feel the wind blowing strongly on the palm of my hands.

I am surprised to find myself calm and not afraid at all.  I tried several times to turn off and on my headlamp but it refused to work.  It was at this point I looked up and realised there were so many stars in the night sky.  The scene was awesome!  I have never seen such a beautiful night sky before.  I regret not taking any pictures then.  Perhaps I was too distracted on what should I do next than snapping away.


Then I remembered I have my mobile phone with me in my pouch.  I brought along hubby's old hp coz I did not expect any reception at Laban Rata.  And this old mobile phone may function as a torch light.  It may not be very bright but it was more than enough for me to see where to climb.  So, slowly I moved forward with one hand holding the rope, the other holding the mobile phone.

I was so delighted when I heard voices that sound like Chu and Donna.  They should be way ahead of me?!  I called out their names a few times but they did not hear me.  Finally they saw me and reached out to me.  I explained to them what happened and they expressed their desire to return to Sayat-sayat checkpoint.   Then a group of people moved passed us and their tour guide encouraged us to moved forward.  Sometimes a little support is all we need.  Moving quickly, Chu followed behind the tour guide, while Donna stayed with me to light up the way as we continued the climb.

At last, we made it to the top before 6am.  Donna and I snuggled behind a big rock, hoping that it would shield us from the freezing cold wind.  Chu was all the way at the peak where the sign was.  The tour guide led her there and left her there.  She dared not to moved around as she was afraid of height.  After assisting Audrey, Robbi came to look for us and he found Chu.  Later, he found us, too.

The very reason we climbed to the peak at the early hours is to catch the sunrise.  Before the climb, I imagined how awesome it would be to witness the glorious sunrise ever in my life.  Many described God's glory like the sunrise - so magnificent, so splendid.  But I was so so so cold, I couldn't take pleasure in it.  I did not pay much attention, in fact.  Every part of me was fighting the cold wind.

Soon, the summit became a little bit crowded as more and more climbers arrived.  As the day became brighter, the various peaks began to light up around us.


Rock face plateau - can you see it?

The beautiful clouds were underneath our feet... perhaps this is what we called 'Top of the World'

The rocky boulder

Robbi showed us the summit rock pool at KM8.5, where ice was found


To be continued...

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